The Temple of Literature in Huê stands on an elevated terrace three metres high, protected by a wall, at the summit of a low hill on the left bank of the Perfume River. A vestige of the imperial Confucian educational system, it honours the memory of scholars trained under the Nguyên dynasty and preserves thirty-four engraved steles bearing the names of doctors who passed the royal examinations.

Why visit the Temple of Literature in Huê

Often confused with its namesake in Hanoi, the Văn Miếu of Huê shares its purpose: to celebrate Confucius and the merit of scholars. But its history is unique to the Nguyên dynasty, the last imperial dynasty of Vietnam, whose capital was established in Huê.

The site holds several interests for the history-minded traveller:

• An immersion into the mandarin examination system, which governed access to public office for centuries.
• Thirty-four stone steles, thirty-two of which rest on the backs of marble tortoises, a unique epigraphic record of the Nguyên intellectual elite.
• A peaceful setting upstream from Thien Mu Pagoda, away from the bustle of central Huê.
• Two royal edicts carved in stone, direct testimonies to the political rules of the imperial court.

History of the Temple

Before finding its permanent location, the temple was built and relocated three times to different villages. It was not until 1808, under the reign of Gia Long, founder of the Nguyên dynasty, that it settled on its current hill, upstream from Thien Mu Pagoda. The School of the Sons of the Kingdom (Quốc Tử Giám) was first installed there, before being moved within the Citadel walls.

At its height, the complex comprised about fifty buildings. The central temple was dedicated to the cult of Confucius, accompanied by Tu Phoi and the twelve philosophers. The Dong Vu and Tay Vu pavilions, arranged on either side, honoured the seventy-two sages and ancient scholars. There were also kitchens, storehouses, and the Dai Thanh and Van Miêu gates, built from lim wood, a hard and precious timber reserved for buildings of importance.

The doctors' steles were erected progressively, from 1831 to 1919, the year of the last "Hoi" examination organised under Khai Dinh. Over time, through wars and weather, most of the buildings disappeared. What remains today are thirty-four steles, which constitute the main part of what there is to see.

What to see on site

The steles of the doctors and marble tortoises

Thirty-two steles, lined on both sides of the courtyard, each rest on the back of a marble tortoise. They bear the names of those who passed the royal examinations. In total, two hundred and thirty-nine doctors graduated under the Nguyên dynasty, representing as many mandarin careers made possible by this institution. The tortoise, a symbol of longevity and stability, classically served as support for inscriptions intended to endure.

The two royal edict steles

The last two steles do not bear the names of laureates but engraved edicts. The first, promulgated by Minh Mang on 17 March 1836, decrees that eunuchs of the Forbidden City cannot aspire to the mandarinate. The second, attributed to Thieu Tri and dated 21 December 1884, stipulates that the king's maternal relatives cannot hold positions of power. These two texts shed light on the political balance the court sought to preserve around the sovereign.

Residual architecture

Of the original fifty constructions, only foundations, a few walls and the elevated terrace remain. The surrounding wall still delimits the sacred space. The current simplicity of the site contrasts with the original splendour, but allows for a better grasp of the ceremonial dimension of the place.

Practical information

• Location: on the left bank of the Perfume River, upstream from Thien Mu Pagoda, approximately 5 km from central Huê.
• Access: by taxi, motorbike taxi or bicycle from the city centre. A combined visit with Thien Mu Pagoda is the most logical approach.
• Duration of visit: allow 30 minutes to 1 hour, as the site today is reduced to its main vestiges.
• Admission: modest entrance fee, sometimes free depending on the period; inquire on site.
• Tip: bring a hat and water, the esplanade offers little shade.

Nearby attractions

Huê and its surroundings are home to a rich imperial and religious heritage. To extend your visit, several sites across Vietnam complement the cultural perspective:

• The Cham sculpture museum in Da Nang, to understand the civilisation that preceded the Nguyên.
• Cát Bà, biosphere reserve in the north-east, for a natural contrast.
• Cai Rang floating market, in the Mekong Delta, another facet of traditional Vietnam.

Plan your trip

The Temple of Literature fits naturally into a circuit around Huê, complementing the Citadel, the royal tombs and Thien Mu Pagoda. To build a tailor-made itinerary including the former imperial capital, explore our Vietnam journeys.